Repairing Siding From Rot Damage

Lift the bottom shingle and slip in the kickout flashing.

Repairing siding from rot damage. A couple easy solutions that saved me tons of time was to gently pull up on the siding at the studs with a pry bar careful enough not to damage the siding but enough to loosen a nail or two. The heads will break the paper face allowing water to soak in and deteriorate the siding. Softwood damaged by wood rot is not salvageable and should be replaced as soon as possible to keep the rot from spreading. In most cases the original layer of building paper or housewrap at the bottom of the wall was enough to prevent water infiltration and damage beneath the siding.

This can be tough since so many times the siding is nailed down. We tear off the damaged hardboard and replace it with fiber cement siding. When you come across rotted wood in your old house projects instead of replacing the damaged wood you also can repair it with specialty epoxy penetrants also called consolidants and fillers to make repairs. Caulk any nailheads that break the paper face.

Inspect the sidewall around and underneath the fascia and inside the house for signs of moisture damage and repair any rotted areas. If the wood is discolored but the screwdriver test did not detect. The sheathing and framing sometimes need repairs too but that is less common. However the amount of present rot can be deceptive.

The goal was to get 2 3 inches above the inside of the siding. If the area of the siding you need to repair is larger than two to four inches the best and most permanent solution is to replace that particular panel of siding. Generally fiber cement sidings last a lot longer than their wooden counterparts. Nail it to the sidewall or glue it if nailing isn t possible.

Seal these joints with a 35 year paintable acrylic caulk. Not only is this faster but the fixed wood is stronger than the original.